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Green Striped Shirt Finished

Monday, November 21, 2005

Finished shirt

Title: Never Say Never Shirt
Fabric: Stretch cotton woven shirting

Finished and worn! I was a bit stumped on the buttons for this shirt. Plain white seemed wrong for such a snazzy shirt. As I was putting my button collection away, I found a whole card of 3/8" gray buttons. Perfect!

You may recall that this draft was exactly the same as my white shirt, except that I didn't do as much work in PE. In fact, I re-used all the parts of the white shirt except the torso.

Of course I had to cut the yoke off and do those parts again, but that wasn't any big deal. Mainly it involved placing the new draft over the old and marking where to cut it off then putting on seam allowance.

One of these days I want to learn to use varying seam allowances as discussed in the new Threads. It will require an index card taped above the 'puter and the sewing 'puter (as my Bernina refers to itself in the manual) to get me going with that, though. (Where'd I put those index cards???)

PMB Settings
  • Garment Type= Blouse
  • Style= Classic Blouse
  • Closure= Single Breasted
  • Front Neckline= Jewel
  • Back Neckline= Jewel
  • Yoke= No Yoke
  • Hemline Shape= Curved
  • Darts= Side
  • Upper Back Dart= Shoulder
  • Sideseam shape= Fitted
  • Front Waist Darts=2
  • Back Waist Darts=2
  • Front Neckline Depth= 0.5
  • Back Neckline Depth= 0
  • Neckline Width= 0.25
  • Neckline Point= 0
  • Armhole Depth= 0.5
  • Dart Override=0
  • Side/Arm Point=-0.5
  • Side/Hip Point=-0.5

  • Upper Back Dart Length=1
  • Lower Front Dart Length=4.5
  • Lower Back Dart Length=4.5
  • Back Shoulder Dart Length=3
  • Sleeve Style= Set In
  • Sleeve Underarm Seam= Tapered
  • Sleeve Hemline Shape=Pleated
  • Sleeve Cap Ease=1.21
  • Sleeve Length=22.5
  • Sleeve Hem Circumference=8.5
  • Sleeve Cap Height= -0.75
  • Back Armhole Shape Up=0.8 Clicks
  • Collar Style= Dress Shirt
  • Collar Width=2
  • Chest Ease= 3.5
  • Waist Ease= 2.5
  • Hip Ease= 4

Changes in Pattern Editor

I actually did all of this with the white shirt, I just repeated them here for future reference:

  • Cut off 1.25" from the front shoulder and added it to the back.
  • Cut off a yoke 4.5" from neckline at CB
  • Rotated back shoulder dart to seamline
  • Mirrored the collar and stand to create a "whole"
  • Created the Express Collar from the regular collar pattern
  • Smoothed the arc of the yoke piece
Final analysis

I love, love, love this shirt. Perhaps one day some nice non-stretch shirting will come my way and I can make it again.

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