• Home
• Gallery
• Machines
• Inklings

« May 2005 | Main | July 2005 »

Waking up tired

Thursday, June 30, 2005

My brain was too fuzzy last night to get the crotch seam right. We walked our two miles then ate a fairly quick dinner. You'd think I would have been ready to go on those man-pants, but no.

I sewed the seam, but it isn't right somehow. There's an opening at the bottom of the zipper that shouldn't be there. I examined the RTW pair, and while they don't seem particularly sturdy in that spot, there's no open seamline. So.

After staying up too late watching Law & Order reruns, I don't know if I'll be able to get to it today either. I'm barely functional.

It could be that I'll just spend my sewing time today reading about other people's sewing... I've been enjoying the blogs and pages on the webring that I joined. One of the blogs on that ring linked to Manolo's Shoe Blog, which I have found particularly entertaining. The photo there this morning is a tiny bit shocking, though, so consider yourself warned.

Manolo's Shoe Blog.

The good news is that my birthday/anniversary camera has been shipped, so, I'll be able to show you some pictures of my mistakes any day now!

Reader's Digest Fly

Wednesday, June 29, 2005

Before I commit to the shirtwaist, I've got to at least finish the black and navy pants for DH. The black ones are very close to completed, since I spent the golden hour last night finishing the right side of the fly and sewing up the legs.

I'm bound to get faster on the next one.

This fly method will make you crazy. The pattern pieces are not shaped like the ones I usually use, and the sewing order is radically different. I wish there were photographs, like in the Singer books, rather than the line drawings. You can't tell whether they are showing the right side or the wrong side--which led to one restart. I apparently follow pictures better than the written text.

The good news is that the fly looks almost exactly like the one on the pair of men's RTW that I keep in the sewing room for reference. At each step, I've examined those old pants and I must say that I am very pleased with my Reader's Digest fly. The whole thing looks bizarre, though, because I have yet to sew the crotch seam, so there are two completed legs held together by a zipper.

I hope to puzzle out the crotch seam part tonight.

Shirtwaist dress drafted

Tuesday, June 28, 2005

It was a lot of (fun) work creating this dress. After looking at all those shirtwaist patterns, I decided I wanted

• Shoulder princess front bodice, collar, and button front like Vogue 7897
• Back yoke, A-line skirt, and pleat like Simplicity 4995
• Plain short sleeves--shorter than PMB will draft
• Modified cargo pockets

I made four drafts in PMB then took them into PE to create my final dress draft.
There was a draft with

1. Side/waist darts
2. Shoulder princess "darts"
3. Side/waist and back shoulder darts
4. Waist darts

I could have done it all with the 3rd draft, if I had only known at the beginning what I know now! Two things stand out in my mind:

First, the sleeve would draft funny if I left the sleeve screen before saving the pattern. It would draft a long and skinny cap, if I, say, went to the bodice screen and then saved the pattern. I had to remember to always save from the sleeve screen. (This is one reason why people give up on Patternmaster!)

Second, the shoulder princess bodice drafted by PMB looked odd to me, and I don't remember it looking that way when I've made this type bodice before. The side front piece seemed to slant to the left too much--it was all bias. I discovered that it was created by rotating all the dart to the waist. I was able to determine this by bringing the waist dart draft and the shoulder princess draft into PE and comparing them.

I haven't printed this pattern yet. Just looking at the image above, I see a few things that I want to check out before I commit this to paper--like the sleeve hem circumference, and the back shoulder length. The pocket may be a bit narrow, too.

I'm close, very close.

Man-pants In Progress

Monday, June 27, 2005

Saturday was our wedding anniversary and we celebrated by going on a hike in the mountains with a church group. It was a lot of fun. We had a nice little anniversary dinner on Friday night, since we knew we'd be too grungy (and tired) on Saturday night.

The trail was 5.5 miles to a beautiful waterfall and a pool. The water was too cold for me to do more than wade a bit, but those kids were tough and had a great time swimming. After a picnic lunch and a nap we headed back to the beginning.

Despite hiking eleven miles on Saturday, I was able to get started on the pants for DH yesterday. I decided to cut the black and navy fabrics and do as much as possible of the navy pair with black thread.

It's surprising how much of pants construction is not sewing. After cutting, you have to apply interfacing, press hems and front creases, plus mark the pocket placement and back darts. With this polyester fabric, pressing must be done very carefully to avoid iron-marks on the fabric.

Inspired by Fashion-Incubator, I decided to construct the back welt pockets first. Mine aren't the same as those, but I'm getting the Kwik Sew back welt pockets memorized! The black ones are done--down to the buttonholes. The front pockets are done on both pairs, except for the topstitching on the navy pants.

The fly fronts on these pants will be sewn according to the Reader's Digest sewing book. I have mentioned how I don't like the way my fly shields turn out with the cut-on fly. This time, I cut the fly extension off in preparation for the RD method, which supplies its own drafting instructions.

My brain was too fuzzy to start on that last night, so that's where I'll begin next time!

Ramping up

Friday, June 24, 2005

"A twist of the wrist--Presto--A perfect Dress form"

--Acme Dress Form ad, January 15, 1913.

I've been trying to work up some sewing enthusiasm this past week by reading the Reader's Digest Sewing Book before bed. Those pants for DH are the trouble. I know they take about 8 hours each, and I have fabric for three of them.

If I don't start, I'll never finish! If I don't finish, I can't make the dresses that I want for myself.

I really want a nice shirtwaist to wear for work. That's always been a favorite style of mine, and it seems to be coming back into vogue, judging from the multitude of shirtwaist-style patterns that are out there. Shirtwaists are easy to make, and easy to wear--provided you sew it in something that doesn't wrinkle too much.

A few that I like are:

• Vogue 7897 is calling my name. I really like the princess seaming in the bodice on this one. The pockets are nice, too.
• 7897's princess seaming would be just as nice with a slightly A-line skirt like Vogue 8028. I don't like the square-shouldered look of 8028's bodice at all. It does have a nice collar with a stand that the other two don't have. I like that especially on the straight skirted view D.
• McCall's 4769 has darts for shaping in the bodice. This one appeals to me a lot. I don't know why, unless it's the pretty green of the model's dress.
• Simplicity 4995 has both the A-line skirt and the nice pockets. The front opening is interesting, too. I like how the buttons stop just below the waistline.
• New Look 6214 has nice lines, although I don't really like the drop waist.

Perhaps the thing to do is to sew a pair of man-pants, then a dress for me, then another pair of man-pants, then two more dresses for me! How's that for motivation? Of course, first I'll have to take the design features I like from each of these patterns and draft the perfect shirtwaist.

Empty Nesting

Thursday, June 23, 2005

DH and I have been spending a lot of time together, keeping ourselves entertained--going places, taking walks, seeing movies. This empty nest "thang" is definitely different and is taking some adjustment. It's sort of like being newlywed, but better because we know each other now and some of the rough edges are worn off.

Last night he asked "What was that you wanted for your birthday, an Ipod?"

Oh! I would so *love* an Ipod. Last Christmas it was tops on my wish list. Now, however, a new digital camera is needed more due to the Sprout moving out and taking hers. I gave him a model number--Canon A95. My next project photos should be vastly improved.

The next project better be the new pants for the DH, eh?

From Vogue, January, 1913

Wednesday, June 22, 2005

When I went back to the library they had shelved a few more old Vogues. The first I picked up was January 1, 1913 (apparently they were published every two weeks in those days). This issue interspersed articles about spending winter in the South, with ads for pigeon breasted waists and automobiles.

On women's influence on the motor car:

"From her seat in the tonneau she exacted ease of motion and luxury, and now from her seat at the wheel, she demands simplicity in mechanics."

The new models were very impressive! While driving this wonder, you could wear The Automobile Corset or La Prima Bust Transformer which "gives the Natural Graceful Contour of a perfectly developed bust."

And a few book reviews:

• My Love and I by Martin Redfield
• Mrs Lancelot, a comedy of assumptions by Maurice Hewlette
• The Joyous adventure of Aristide Pujal by William J Locke
• Marriage by H G Wells
• Blue Bird Weather by Robert W Chambers
• Motor Journeys by Lousie Closser Hale

Finishing things--No UFOs allowed

Tuesday, June 21, 2005

UFOs (Unfinished Objects) left lying around your house are draining. They are just little piles of guilt waiting to ambush you the next time you notice them. (Stash is similar, but I haven't figured out a way to deal with that--yet.) I don't leave wadder sewing projects in my house for that reason. They either get fixed, or tossed immediately. No nasty ghosts of past mistakes are allowed to hang around and haunt me.

I attacked and vanquished one small pile of UFOs in the form of half-completed knitting projects just this weekend.

The knitting basket sits between my chair and the wall, so it isn't noticed, unless it gets piled really high, or you want to use that space for something else--doll parts, for instance.

I haven't knitted in months, but the knitting basket was full of project bits, and balls of yarn. In fact, there were *two* knitting baskets full. The time had come to clear out that corner.

Some of the knitting I unraveled to release the guilt. The yarn went back to stash. I really ought to get rid of it before the bugs eat it.

One aran sweater I put away because the work is beautiful, though unfinished. I'll face facts about that after the moths have their fill.

Two of the projects were so close to being done that I decided to finish them! The first was an aran tea cozy. I had found the pattern on the 'net somewhere long ago--five years, I'd estimate--and knitted it completely. All that was left to do was to sew up one side. One side.

It now resides in my pot holder drawer, waiting for my next cuppa.

The other was a felted poppy flower pin from magknits. I had been knitting it during this spring's Wednesday night Bible Study. It ended too soon to finish knitting the pin. The flower requires 6 petals and I had knitted--you guessed it--five.

The petals are now completed. I will knit the center next and felt it.

You'll see it here first, folks!!

Maria in Pieces

Monday, June 20, 2005

Here's dolly #2 from my on-line class. She's made from the white robe velour that I dyed a week or two ago.

I like it. The velour is just right without being too stretchy! The color is good, too.

Black Lace Camisole--saved!

Friday, June 17, 2005

A bit of scissorwork saves the day!

Since there was no ripping off the scrunchy bindings, I cut them off with my trusty Ginghers. Actually the camisole is better for the larger openings. I think I'll go back and take 3/8 in more off the draft at the neckline and armholes.

I recut the bindings using the lycra specs from yesterday's chart, and it worked beautifully.

You can't tell from this awful photograph, but the front neckline is about 2.5 inches lower than the back neckline. Also, you can't see the triangular applique at the center front neckline where I *creatively* covered a hole cut when trimming the binding.

8{

Thank goodness lace is so forgiving. I made the patch--er, applique in the shape of a triangle and zig-zagged it on. I was hoping that a triangle would make it appear that I intended for it to be there, but you don't even see it.

Now if I can just find my perfected Jalie panties pattern.

A wadder--NOT!

Thursday, June 16, 2005

After work yesterday I needed a little "Sewing Room Therapy" so I quickly cut a stretch lace camisole. This was not the same as the black interlock one I made last week, but more like a tank top with a lot more negative ease. (much less ease?)

The hem was cut along the scalloped selvage, so it was about a 30 minute project, or should have been.

I decided on binding the neck and armholes with self fabric and used my standard formulas for that (thanks to Stretch & Sew and Emma Seabrooke):

The way you use this formula is to take the measurement of your neckline, subtract the appropriate percentage, and add 1 inch for seam allowance. Then you cut your binding strips that length and seam the ends. Finally, apply them to the garment at the quarter marks.

Well, mine didn't work out. I applied the bindings to the neck and armholes, but it scrunched them up. I thought it would stretch back out when I put it on, but no. Still scrunchy.

I did not realize until I typed the chart above, that I used the wrong fabric type! I used the formula for "knit" when I should have used "lycra". I'll go back and try again tonight. This will have matching panties, so I want to get it right!

Makeover Programs Abound

Wednesday, June 15, 2005

The kitchen TV played for the entire 2+ hours that it took me to get dinner created, served, and cleaned up last night. Don't you sometimes think that women getting TV makeovers need a psychiatrist more than a new hairstyle and wardrobe?

I watched a program on Style channel that featured a woman who was a dead ringer for the Linda Evans character on Dynasty. Remember that from the 80s?

She looked *so much better* after her new 'do and wardrobe that I could not believe it. She, OTOH, was horrified at the changes and really put a wet blanket over the whole cast.

Before the makeover show was some ditzy production about stylists having a bit of money and an hour's shopping to recreate a designer look for a woman who had some event or other to attend. They would show the victim two designer ensembles and she would pick one. She and the stylists would then set out in some big shopping center to closely duplicate the outfit (with varying degrees of success).

That may be a good model to help those of us who sew stay current.

Think of it: Pick a designer outfit and recreate it on your sewing machine. We could do a much better job than the show--our stuff would actually fit! Not only would it fit, but we could exactly duplicate any garment that the designer made, if we wanted to.

We've been snoop shopping for a long time, but I personally have never done the whole enchilada from shoes to necklace. Hmmm. I feel a project coming on.

From Vogue, April, 1914

Tuesday, June 14, 2005

At the University library, we are fortunate to have access to Vogue Magazine dating back to 1914--at least some of them. I spent my lunch hour yesterday cooling it on the 7th floor, reading the April, 1914 issue.

Every page was printed in black & white, except for the cover. Most of the illustrations were drawings, although there were a few photographs of "society" and "theatre" people wearing what must have been outlandish attire--bathing costumes, harem outfits--at least to regular people like those from which I sprang.

I doubt my grandmothers ever read Vogue. They were in their teens when this particular magazine was published, but already married and producing farmhands and soldiers for WWII! One photo I saw was a dress for a "girl" of sixteen--not a word about the "mother" of (age) sixteen.

There were ads for maternity corsets and maid's uniforms, which I found humorous. Apparently ladies judged each other by how well their maids were attired for occasions at different times of the day. I also enjoyed this introduction to a section entitled "A Short Skirt for Modesty"

"We were in a measure prepared for this by the adoption of the split skirt. The very short skirt of the hour appeals to people as being a much more modest affair than the split skirt. Just why is not clear, but fortunately we are concerned only with the fact. The present mode decrees that the skirt shall escape the ground by not less than 4 inches and that 7 is not unthinkable; and the line is likely to climb higher rather than to be lowered."

I saw not one ad for a "split" skirt. <bg>

Another (better) Tee

Monday, June 13, 2005

By George, I think I've got it!

This one is the best yet. It is interlock, which is less stretchy than the red tee. It fits closely, but not too close. I took the red tee draft, which had been scaled horizontally to 95% already, and

1. removed an additional .5" removed from sideseam at back waist
2. removed an additional .25" removed from sideseam at front waist
3. removed .25" of the side bust dart at the shoulder
4. shortened to approximately 19" and straightened the hemline
5. angled sleeve seam inward slightly at hem

For the binding, I used my standard 1.75" strip of cross-grain knit quartered and sewn rst (right sides together). Then I flipped to to the ws (wrong side) and used a twin needle finish. Stitching from the front, I let the right needle pierce the edge of the binding and the left needle stitch in the ditch. On the inside, I simply trimmed the raw edge near the stitching.

I think using the twin needle will make this more secure than a single line of straight stitching--not to mention more stretchy. Too, I've had the heartbreaking experience of watching this sort of unfinished binding "let go" after trimming too close to the stitching. That shouldn't happen with this method.

I think this is the holy grail dartless T-shirt. You'll be seeing this again. Look for it!

Sewing dizzily

Friday, June 10, 2005

I'm on my third day of vertigo aka Vestibular Neuronitis. The doc said it was most likely a postlude of the sore throat I had last week.

Well, thanks.

As long as I stay upright and look straight ahead, I'm good. So I can sew, and type on the 'puter, as long as I stay still and move carefully. I almost pitched myself onto the floor pouring coffee this morning. Whoa!

Yesterday I drafted a camisole from my red tee and worked on the doll face for the round robbin. Surprisingly they both turned out pretty well despite my swaying when I reach for anything! I can't show you the doll face, but here's the cami.

This I got from DC's review at PR. I didn't know I wanted one, but after reading her review, I tried some on at Target. They were too long and their fabric was too flimsy. Debbie made it sound easy, so I drafted this one based on my red Tee (knit top <gg> ). It's a tiny bit loose yet, but I'll correct that next time.

Perhaps I'll get a page up later on today showing how I did it. I already paid my bills, and I can't do much else, after all.

I did get a page up. Check this out: http://www.rustybobbin.com/gallery/2005/TOP-camisole.html

Dolly skin experiments

Thursday, June 09, 2005

My next doll should have stretchy skin, I think. Being a rank beginner, I'm not sure what to buy. I've been reading a lot about using the back side of doe suede and robe velour. Those things are scarce around here this time of year, and what is available is in anti-skin tones.

A Yahoo group that I am in has a chart for dyeing fabric with Rit dyes to get doll skin colors. I decided to try some dye experiments to get a suitable fabric.

I've played around with Rit before, and yes, I know that there are better, more professional dyes around, but that requires planning ahead. For now, these are locally available and easy--plus there's the aforementioned chart to go by!

I got out my big enamel pot that I use for poisonous projects like soapmaking and dyeing stuff. It lives in the garage and has its own set of utensils--metal spoon, plastic spoon, plastic mixing bowl.

I filled it half full of hot water and put it on the stove. To that I added 1/2 cup of salt, 9 tsp tan liquid Rit, 2 tsp peach liquid Rit and stirred. I couldn't really tell what color it was--the pot is dark blue--until I dropped in the (entire) 1/2 yard of muslin which immediately turned the dark peachy tan color that you see below.

Uggh. Not what I wanted. It will be useful for ethnic skin tones, certainly, so it won't be wasted.

I learned from that mistake. I snipped small squares of the next two fabrics to test before committing the whole piece that I had purchased.

I dropped in a pink panne square and watched it become quite dark right away. That's when I realized that my chart was for dyeing in a washing machine! I poured out half the dye in the pot and refilled with hot water--take that! Then dropped another pink bit in. It looked just right shortly so I plunged in the entire 1/2 yard piece. After it went the white robe velour. Results follow:

	100% cotton muslin This one came out much darker than I intended. It really soaked up the dye fast. When I realized how dark it would be, I pulled it out of the pot and rinsed.
	White Polyester Robe Velour I'm most pleased with the color of this one. The stretch factor is about right, too. My next doll will probably be made from this fabric.
	Pink Polyester Panne Velour I had great hopes for the color of this one, but it's a bit dark, too, although you can't really tell from this scan. It's also very stretchy, so I'll save it for later. I've seen some dolls that are made from muslin but are "skinned" with stretch fabric. This may be a candidate for that process.

Tee Shirt in Red

Wednesday, June 08, 2005

The red tee is a rousing success! The closer fit is just what I wanted.

I had a bit of an adventure with the neck binding, but that could happen to anyone!

Dartless Tee

Tuesday, June 07, 2005

Everybody needs a few tee shirts to expand their wardrobe. The Patternmaster tees have served me well, but sometimes the reviews of commercial patterns at PatternReview are very enticing.

After the 2005 SWAP, Julie at Timmel Fabrics gave each entrant a pattern of their choice as a perk for entering the contest. I chose Jalie 2005, Choice of T-shirts based on the many glowing reviews at Pattern Review. I've had it for a week or three, and decided to get it out and compare it to my last known good PMB draft. I'd like to have a bit more shape to my tees, and a comparison might help.

The differences were interesting, and not as radical as I was expecting. The Jalie in my size was circumferentially smaller than my PMB tee. My PMB tee has more waistline definition but with 7+inches of ease there, definition hardly matters.

I need negative ease over all to approximate (but not reproduce) the Jalie. I do want my next tee to be a bit more body skimming--but fit smoothly (unlike the ones I tried on at Target last week!)

The Jalie hip had much less ease that than its bust (armpit)--I'm sure this excess is used in an attempt to fit many different ladies. My tee didn't have this excess width--and I don't need it.

My sleeves were very similar in both width and length. A surprising difference was the shape of the Jalie sleeve cap, though. It has a very "poofy" shape--almost as if it should be gathered.

Based on this comparison, I've scaled my PMB tee down and cut in the waist a little more. Once I've made that, I may experiment with the sleeve cap some. Given my troubles with PMB sleeves, I'm a little afraid to make big changes.

Killing two birds with one stone

Monday, June 06, 2005

At some point, two disparate projects are bound to converge--especially when they spring from the same sewing room.

Our neighborhood ASG group meeting is coming up on Saturday, and we have an assignment to complete. The project from our November Fabric Swap challenge is due for this week's Show & Tell.

Back in November we each brought a yard or so of fabric that we did not want. A "what was I thinking???" bit of fabric that we were unlikely to use if we kept it a million years. Everyone who brought fabric drew someone else's unwanted bit and promised to return in June with a finished item. The length I took home was a yellow calico strewn with tiny red, green, blue, and white.

June has arrived.

I don't even have a yellow category *in* my stash. I would never buy yellow fabric. Never. To compound the problem, there was about two yards of this stuff--not that you had to use it *all*.

My first plan was to make a lunch bag from it. I also considered a makeup bag or an apron. Nobody cares if those are flattering to their carrier. In fact, with a little embroidery, it could even be cute.

Nothing appealed.

Since close proximity to something generlly spawns ideas, I kept the yellow floral close to me for several weeks. The ugly duckling fabric draped over a chair in the lower sewing room. It decorated the computer desk. It occupied my thoughts in random daydreams, but came no closer to inspiring a project. What to do?

Work on something else. Like my Angelique doll, with which I was also weary. I had to put hair on her head and make some clothing for her before I could go on to the next, more-complicated, doll. Nevermind that she was supposed to be an angel with a long lace dress and wings. Wouldn't she be cute in some yellow-sprigged Asian-style pajamas???

True, it only took 1/2 yard. Not to worry, there'll be another Ugly Fabric Swap in the future. I'm sure of it.

Angelique

Friday, June 03, 2005

Angelique is waiting patiently for some hair. It's probably a good thing that she can't speak. I'm sure she'd be complaining by now.

The on-line doll class that I am taking has four dolls in it, and Angelique is the first, most simple one. After I settle on some hair--right now I'm untangling some Raggedy Ann red boucle for that--I'll move on to her clothes.

It's cool how this sewing thing just never stops unfolding.

You start with a pillow, or something simple, then you progress to clothing, or quilts, or draperies. Always there is something new and interesting to try.

I love it!

The Stuff takes over

Thursday, June 02, 2005

There are four "bedrooms" in my house, but only one bed. Two people live there, but we have six televisions. People keep asking me to number the sewing machines, but I refuse.

I know there are four downstairs, and I actively sew with four more upstairs. I don't plan to count the rest--knowing that number can only cause looks of consternation on the face of my DH when I mistakenly blurt it out. I *have* counted the five large bins of stashed fabric, and I know that the closet in one of the "bedrooms" is occupied by the fleeces and other lofty fabrics that won't go into the bins.

How do we collect all this stuff?

The televisions are there because they just keep on working. You buy a new one, and there's nothing to do with the old one but move it into a space that doesn't have one in it. Most of the fabric comes in during "sales"--especially end of season sales. That's why it doesn't get sewn up right away. As soon as I get it, it's the wrong season.

I know where that stuff comes from, but the sewing machines seem to waltz in the door by themselves. I started out looking for one nice treadle.

You've heard people say "What you think about, you bring about" ?

Be careful what you think about.

Spoil 'em rotten

Wednesday, June 01, 2005

Summertime is upon us. Yes, I know it's cool and rainy outside today, but it's here. Those of you in northern climes may not have the same kind of weather that we enjoy (and I use the term loosely) here in Georgia, so believe me, summertime is here.

The air conditioner has already been humming at my house, and all I can think of is staying cool. Wearing, and thus sewing, clothing holds little appeal. To be honest, I have more clothes than I can wear in a week, what with all the SWAP stuff and the things I've sewn since. Who needs more than that?

DH still needs new things, and he's easy to spoil. I finally conviced him to order fabric off the 'net. There just wasn't anything around here to sew for him. We quickly found some at Fashion Fabrics Club. Gray, navy, and black gabardine are on their way south to be turned into Kwik Sew 3267 pants asap.

I've a few shirtings spotted for him--Trim fabric has a few--but that can wait until after the pants are done. By that time, I may be cooled off enough to sew for myself again!