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Fluffy Pants

Wednesday, January 11, 2006

I'm just not sure about my new pants drafts. Last night I sewed up the Fluffy Pants, and honestly, they feel tight!

The idea of continuing to drop the crotch depth in PMB until you get the adequate crotch length seems ok, and the pattern pieces look good. In fact, I've been trying to get my front crotch seam to look like that for years, but I'm already at 11.5 crotch depth and need more. Normally I would "scoop" the back for it, but since the crotch depth is so low, and the legs are narrow (which is nice!), there's not much to scoop. It's like the "fattest" part of the hip doesn't go down far enough. (I think that hip adjustment tool is what I need...)

I got the Fluffy Pants sewn up last night, but it was late and Mr H was hollering that it was time to go to bed. The final analysis with attempted scooping will have to wait for tonight.

Green Surprises

Wednesday, January 04, 2006

I've been very surprised by the number of fabrics that match the Double G. After all, it is lime green and I never have green clothing to wear--not even on St Paddy's day! For that holiday I usually have to settle for something olive.

Of course, I made the Shimmer Blouse to go with the Double G, but the Never say Never shirt matches it, too. Then I found a Christmas print which could be a vest. Last night, a sweaterknit from one of the stash bins started yelling that it, too, would match the Double G.

All right!

After my next pants test, I think I'll look more closely at that sweater knit. Wrap tops are still fairly popular, so I may go back and try to draft something like Folkwear's Thai Blouse again. I drafted (and sewed) it a couple of years ago, but the sleeves were too tight, and the fabric I chose was scratchy. A sweater knit might be just right.

If I can't work out the Folkwear knock-off, there always the good ole Copycat to play with! That would be great with long sleeves. I know because I've already seen one this season.

I could call it Copycat Squared.

Fleecy stuff

Friday, December 23, 2005

Is this not the cutest thing??? I'm wanting to whip up a few little silly Christmas gifts, and Googled for "fringed fleece scarf" and found this little cutie. I have in mind making up a few in red, white, black and grey for some Dawgs fans I know.

I was searching for directions for this fleece boa. I could almost make it from the directions she gave in the review, but not quite. Finally, (duh!) I went to the Hancock's site and found it among lots of other cool projects: Hancock's Free Project Page. The boa pattern is in the "Fun with Fleece 2003" link.

I'm lovin' it.

Mr H and I will be scarce for the next week or so. I'm hoping to get back in here tomorrow to wish you a Merry Christmas and show you some pics of the fleece thingies. See you then!

Shimmer Blouse

Monday, December 12, 2005

You may recall that I made this to wear to a Christmas Party on Saturday. In true form, I finished about 12:15 and the party was at 2:00. I'm very happy with the Shimmer Blouse pattern draft with one small exception which you can read about further on. I'm not quite as happy with the fabric. Since I chose to use the fabric with wrong side out, the scratchy metallic is next to my skin.

Other than that, this is a really comfortable draft, so I'll make it again later. I enjoy being able to pull it over my head and not have to deal with buttons or any other closure. I'll have to redraft the sleeves, and I think I'll either draft them straight or with a flare, rather than the cuff that I used this time.

• Garment Type= Blouse
• Style= Classic Blouse
• Closure= Single Breasted
• Front Neckline= Jewel
• Back Neckline= Jewel
• Yoke= No Yoke
• Hemline Shape= Straight
• Darts= Side
• Upper Back Dart= Shoulder
• Sideseam shape= Fitted
• Front Waist Darts=2
• Back Waist Darts=2
• Front Neckline Depth= 0.5
• Back Neckline Depth= 0
• Neckline Width= 0.25
• Neckline Point= 0
• Armhole Depth= 0.5
• Dart Override=-0.25
• Side/Arm Point=-0.5
• Side/Hip Point=-0.5

• Upper Back Dart Length=1
• Lower Front Dart Length=4.5
• Lower Back Dart Length=4.5
• Back Shoulder Dart Length=3
• Sleeve Style= Set In
• Sleeve Underarm Seam= Tapered
• Sleeve Hemline Shape=Pleated
• Sleeve Cap Ease=0.86
• Sleeve Length=19
• Sleeve Cuff=Wing
• Sleeve Cuff Width=4.5
• Sleeve Cuff Length=7.5
• Sleeve Hem Circumference=7.5
• Sleeve Cap Height= -0.25
• Back Armhole Shape Up=0.8 Clicks
• Collar Style= Shirt
• Collar Width=2
• Chest Ease= 3.5
• Waist Ease= 2.5
• Hip Ease= 4

• Mirrored the collar to create a "whole"
• Located a point 5 inches from the side hemline
• Drew a line from the new point to CF and cut off the triangle
• Added 3/4" seam allowance at CB to allow for folding over to the outside.
• Deleted front and back waist darts

1. The sleeves drafted a bit too snug around the elbow, so I inset some triangles of the shiny side into the lower sleeve. I really like the effect.

2. To make the vertical accent on the back, I simply folded the seam allowances under on the outside and stitched them down.

3. To make the vertical accent on the front, I cut bias and positioned it so that I could seam it on then fold it over and the raw edges would be at the CF edge. Then I sewed the CF seam, which finished it off.

4. This was the first time I had tried PMB's shirt collar type. It always just looked funny to me. Fortunately, it turned out fine and I like it!

5. I eased in the back shoulder dart

What's the Backup Plan???

Friday, December 09, 2005

Every good plan needs a good backup plan. I'm getting down to the wire on my outfit and ornament for tomorrow's Christmas party. (I actually have two parties tomorrow, but the evening one is not an issue.)

Last night I was able to get the collar on my Shimmer Blouse, and the skirt is, of course, done. I got stuck on the treatment for the center front seam, so I stopped working and went to bed.

As on the tencel blouse, I want the alternate side of the fabric to accent the seam line. The back was easy--I just seamed it wrong sides together and stitched the seam allowances down on the right side. That won't work for the front because of the facing. I cut some bias to bind it somehow, but I just couldn't wrap my head around it last night.

This morning I have that figured out. I'll stitch one side of the bias to the CF so that when I fold it over, the edges match up and the raw edge is covered. Next I'll stitch the facing, then the remainder of the CF seam down to the slit.

A hem, some sleeves, and voilà! The blouse will be finished.

The ornament, OTOH, probably won't be finished in time. I'm about halfway done because I keep having to stop and thread more beads. That takes forever, and I've accepted the fact that this knitted ornament will fall into the basket until after tomorrow.

You can't do everything.

Not to worry. Embroidery Library has some pretty snowflakes that could be stitching out while I finish my blouse.

Double G Skirt and Shimmer Blouse

Thursday, December 08, 2005

The skirt is great! I'd be perfectly happy if there was a bit more room for the "fluff," though. The top is designed, cut and partially sewn. It offers plenty of room for "fluff," so perhaps I can cover anything unsightly.

After I finished the skirt, I tried it on with several garments in my closet to get a feel for a style that complemented it. I would have thought that a shorter, more fitted top would look best.

No.

I tried the semi-fitted green striped shirt and the Thai blouse. I was very disappointed--too much green skirt! The long, loose-fitting white shirt looked better than either of these. Finally I spied my aqua tencel blouse from last spring, and declared a winner.

The new top will have the pointy slit front and the back detail of the aqua blouse minus the yoke. The sleeves will have a shaped cuff, and the collar will be a simple shirt collar with a 5 inch placket opening. Mix Batik Butik's Cooltouch with Onion 5021, view B, and you've got it.

The Double G

Wednesday, December 07, 2005

The "Double G" in progress

A Christmas Wearable

Friday, December 02, 2005

Say what you like about how tacky Christmas garments can be, I am planning to make something for myself this weekend to wear to the ASG party next weekend. I've been mulling this over for the last few days, knowing that I want to wear it (whatever *it* is) a lot over the next few weeks.

You can Google for Christmas Sweater and stay entertained for hours. I'm not sure it's a sweater that I want, however. I'm growing weary of loud or themed clothing that is useless after its holiday. It must be something that I will not mind giving up when the holidays end. Something easy enough that if I like it a lot, I can make another in an anti-holiday material.

That certainly narrows it down. 8-|

*It* could be an accessory, perhaps. Like a Christmas-themed cell-phone purse? That doesn't seem like quite enough, though. This wearables thing was *my* challenge to the group, after all.

Hmmm. More thought needed. Perhaps I should take a nap and see if I can dream something up!

Bathrobe Chic(k) Cardigan

Tuesday, November 22, 2005

Title: Bathrobe Chic(k) Cardigan
Fabric: Charcoal Sweaterknit fleece from Ressy's co-op
Buttons: Stash

My second garment of the weekend was this Bathrobe- or Kimono-style cardigan. It's the warmest, yummiest thing!

The fabrics is what really makes this so fantastic. It's a sweaterknit fleece that I got sometime earlier from the Fabrics and Notions Co-op on Yahoo! Groups. I love it, and there's enough left to make something else. Yay!

The double-breasted style needed something to keep the front in place. I wanted to leave off the buttons, but it just bothered me too much hanging down in front.

I tried to add a tie belt, but that didn't suit either.

The cardigan is short and I am on the short-ish side of average with a short waist. Adding a round tie belt just didn't look right. Plus, I learned with my brown linen SWAP jacket that I cannot leave the ties alone. I always want to spin them when I walk down the hall, unless my hands are full of something else. Spinning the ends of your tie belt does not contribute to the dignified image that I would prefer to create at work!

Buttons had to be put on, despite the fact that I knew buttonholes would be difficult on this fabric. In the end, I used the stretch buttonhole on my Bernina, and no two are the same size. The fleece is so thick that the automatic buttonhole foot, which would have made 4 buttonholes of the same size, wouldn't feed the fabric. I had to "eyeball it" and I am not good at that. I can never see my markings well enough to get it lined up perfectly. Thread tracing might help. Perhaps I'll remember that *next time*.

My inspiration for this cardigan was a dolman sweater at Anthropologie that is no longer on their site. Mine doesn't look much like the original, but that doesn't matter to me.

I drafted the garment from PMB's Kimono draft. When I got ready to cut it, the fabric was not quite wide enough to lay the large pieces in the direction I had chosen without wasting a lot. I decided to cut off the sleeves and make a separate sleeve pattern piece. Although this puts what appears to be a shoulder seam halfway down my arm, I don't really mind it. I sewed that seam very carefully so that I didn't stretch it and cause ripples.

When it came time to cut the collar, I decided to turn the fleecy side out. So far I love the look. I hope it washes well. I also decided on a similar treatment for the sleeve hems. When I cut the separate sleeve, I lengthened it enough to roll the cuff back. The cuffs won't stay in place on their own, so I tacked them where I wanted them.

The garment hem was a chore. I tried a blind hem, but the fabric is so thick that the hemstitches would only catch the fleece and would pull right out. Next I tried a double needle stitch, but that method put too much of a horizontal line across my hip. If I had not been using fleece, I would have fused it, but this stuff melts and I was afraid the fusing wouldn't hold. Finally I just used a catch stitch hem. It shows, but I'm reserving judgement for a while.

• Garment Type= Jacket
• Style= Kimono Jacket
• Closure= Double Breasted
• Front Neckline= Shawl
• Back Neckline= Jewel
• Darts= Waist
• Upper Back Dart= No Darts
• Sideseam shape= Fitted
• Center Back Style= Straight
• Front Waist Darts=2
• Back Waist Darts=2
• Button Size=0.5
• Number of Buttons= 5
• Front Neckline Depth= 14
• Back Neckline Depth= 0.375
• Neckline Width= 0.5
• Neckline Point= 0
• Armhole Depth= 0.5
• Dart Override=0
• Side/Arm Point=-0.5
• Side/Hip Point=-0.5
• CF/Extension=0
• Cb/Extension=0
• Shoulder Pad=0
• Finished Length= 24
• Flare= 0

• Upper Back Dart Length=1
• Lower Front Dart Length=4.5
• Lower Back Dart Length=4.5
• Back Shoulder Dart Length=3
• Sleeve Style=Kimono
• Sleeve Cap Ease=0
• Sleeve Length=23.5
• Sleeve Hem Circumference=13
• Sleeve Cap Height= -0.75
• Back Armhole Shape Up=0.8 Clicks
• Collar Style= Shawl
• Collar Width=4
• Shawl Collar Type=Standard
• Shawl Notch Type=Straight
• Chest Ease= 4.5
• Waist Ease= 4.5
• Hip Ease= 5

• Rounded the underarm seam to a pleasing arc

Green Striped Shirt Finished

Monday, November 21, 2005

Title: Never Say Never Shirt
Fabric: Stretch cotton woven shirting

Finished and worn! I was a bit stumped on the buttons for this shirt. Plain white seemed wrong for such a snazzy shirt. As I was putting my button collection away, I found a whole card of 3/8" gray buttons. Perfect!

You may recall that this draft was exactly the same as my white shirt, except that I didn't do as much work in PE. In fact, I re-used all the parts of the white shirt except the torso.

Of course I had to cut the yoke off and do those parts again, but that wasn't any big deal. Mainly it involved placing the new draft over the old and marking where to cut it off then putting on seam allowance.

One of these days I want to learn to use varying seam allowances as discussed in the new Threads. It will require an index card taped above the 'puter and the sewing 'puter (as my Bernina refers to itself in the manual) to get me going with that, though. (Where'd I put those index cards???)

• Garment Type= Blouse
• Style= Classic Blouse
• Closure= Single Breasted
• Front Neckline= Jewel
• Back Neckline= Jewel
• Yoke= No Yoke
• Hemline Shape= Curved
• Darts= Side
• Upper Back Dart= Shoulder
• Sideseam shape= Fitted
• Front Waist Darts=2
• Back Waist Darts=2
• Front Neckline Depth= 0.5
• Back Neckline Depth= 0
• Neckline Width= 0.25
• Neckline Point= 0
• Armhole Depth= 0.5
• Dart Override=0
• Side/Arm Point=-0.5
• Side/Hip Point=-0.5

• Upper Back Dart Length=1
• Lower Front Dart Length=4.5
• Lower Back Dart Length=4.5
• Back Shoulder Dart Length=3
• Sleeve Style= Set In
• Sleeve Underarm Seam= Tapered
• Sleeve Hemline Shape=Pleated
• Sleeve Cap Ease=1.21
• Sleeve Length=22.5
• Sleeve Hem Circumference=8.5
• Sleeve Cap Height= -0.75
• Back Armhole Shape Up=0.8 Clicks
• Collar Style= Dress Shirt
• Collar Width=2
• Chest Ease= 3.5
• Waist Ease= 2.5
• Hip Ease= 4

I actually did all of this with the white shirt, I just repeated them here for future reference:

• Cut off 1.25" from the front shoulder and added it to the back.
• Cut off a yoke 4.5" from neckline at CB
• Rotated back shoulder dart to seamline
• Mirrored the collar and stand to create a "whole"
• Created the Express Collar from the regular collar pattern
• Smoothed the arc of the yoke piece

I love, love, love this shirt. Perhaps one day some nice non-stretch shirting will come my way and I can make it again.

What's next?

Tuesday, November 01, 2005

Being away from your "stuff" for a few days is quite restful. It gives you a chance to refocus a bit without the distractions of your regular routine. Now that I'm back and Hallowe'en is over, there are a few fall projects that need to be launched right away.

Mom is in need of a few Vee-neck sweatshirts. She has always had a "thing" about pulling stuff over her head, and shuns all of the crew or T-neck shirts that she finds in the stores. I volunteered to make one to see if it suits. Drafted as soon as I returned home, it should be a thirty minute project--pattern printed and glued.

My closet is bereft of dark colored slacks for fall and winter. I have 3, count 'em, 1 ratty-looking black pair, 1 pleated olive green, and 1 brown poly. I don't know what happened. Either they were all worn out at the end of last winter and I tossed them, or I was so skinny that I tossed them.

Skinny doesn't last...

Over the weekend I drafted a boot cut slacks pattern with a two-inch contoured waistband. These are modeled after an Anthropologie photo that I saved from last year--my pockets will be different. I'll try to find it on the other 'puter and put it up here later. This pattern is printed and glued, too. I plan to cut it from some stiff indigo corduroy that I got from Ressy last year. These can double as jeans, if I do it right.

The last of the print-and-glue projects is the free Nairobi bag from Hot Patterns that everyone at PR has been making. I've got a bit of striped upholstery fabric that did not want to be a jacket last year which may acquiesce this time. (Sometimes you've got to tempt a fabric with just the right pattern, and even then it might be stand-offish.)

I've looked at some pictures on the web of the original bag, and it is lovely. Not as lovely as the price would indicate, but lovely nevertheless. I'm thinking that mine wants a zipper, so I'll use some of the features of my Craftster.org slouchy hobo for this new bag. Next week...or the week after. I can carry my jack-o-lantern purse until then.

If you've missed getting the Nairobi bag pattern, go to the Hot Patterns website at www.hotpatterns.com and click on the free download button. Sign up for their mailing list--the link to the pattern will come in the newsletter.

The only other possible project on my list is an ASG chapter challenge from our president. We are to make something from one of the Simplicity ASG patterns and bring/wear it to the annual meeting.

Anything at all...

for Saturday, November 12.

I have two of these patterns and I don't know why I chose these two in particular--4748, and 4699--but they're what I've got. At least, they are the ones I could find. I can't find a way to search for the ASG patterns on the Simplicity site to see if I recognize another that I've tucked away somewhere. The 4748 jacket appeals, but I'll have to think about that tomorrow.

Green Dud

Friday, October 14, 2005

The green shirt, which was to be a companion for the J@va vest, was completed last evening. The J@va vest, who is made of quality stuff and is something of a snob, rejected it resoundingly.

When I bought the fabric, I liked the green color and the fabric was the only one I could find locally that matched the vest. The extra high mandarin collar actually does work nicely with the vest, but the color just won't do. It's not enough contrast, or something. The only garment in my closet that works with the vest in any way is my red tee, and it is too closely fitted.

Perhaps you haven't seen the J@va vest? It's here. I made it last year, copying a designer pattern that has a reputation for fitting no one--especially not a bony person like me.

So now I've got this tacky green shirt, whose cheap broadcloth fabric smacks of polyester, hanging around my closet. I'm wearing it today, and it is fairly comfortable--except for the crackling sound when I move my arms.

I'll let the DH wash it a few times to see if I like it any better. It's got pretty buttons on it, so they may go into the jar and the shirt into the bin.

Call it experience.

White Loose Fitting Shirt

Tuesday, October 04, 2005

This draft was to be made first from the vanilla shirting, but I decided to go ahead with the white cotton. Turns out, it doesn't look good with the J@va Vest anyway. The J@va Vest wants a *green* shirt to go with it, or maybe a blue one--anything but white!

The fit of this is nice and loose. I don't believe that I have ever used this much ease in a regular shirt drafted with PMB. (By regular I mean one not intended to be worn over something else.) Funny, before PMB I would not have considered 3.5 inches to be a lot of ease. When your draft fits right for you, extra ease isn't needed.

Naturally, I spent a lot of time in Pattern Editor with this. I wanted an extended yoke, so I had to add some of the front shoulder to the back. I also wanted to try the dart rotation tool in Pattern Editor, which I had never bothered to learn, so I used a project sheet that one of the PMB Certified Educators developed to rotate the dart into two shoulder pleats. Finally, I wanted to use the Zieman Express Collar--Louise Cutting does this, too--to eliminate bulk in the collar.

• Garment Type= Blouse
• Style= Classic Blouse
• Closure= Single Breasted
• Front Neckline= Jewel
• Back Neckline= Jewel
• Yoke= No Yoke
• Hemline Shape= Curved
• Darts= Side
• Upper Back Dart= Shoulder
• Sideseam shape= Fitted
• Front Waist Darts=2
• Back Waist Darts=2
• Front Neckline Depth= 0.5
• Back Neckline Depth= 0
• Neckline Width= 0.25
• Neckline Point= 0
• Armhole Depth= 0.5
• Dart Override=0
• Side/Arm Point=-0.5
• Side/Hip Point=-0.5

• Upper Back Dart Length=1
• Lower Front Dart Length=4.5
• Lower Back Dart Length=4.5
• Back Shoulder Dart Length=3
• Sleeve Style= Set In
• Sleeve Underarm Seam= Tapered
• Sleeve Hemline Shape=Pleated
• Sleeve Cap Ease=1.21
• Sleeve Length=22.5
• Sleeve Hem Circumference=8.5
• Sleeve Cap Height= -0.75
• Back Armhole Shape Up=0.8 Clicks
• Collar Style= Dress Shirt
• Collar Width=2
• Chest Ease= 3.5
• Waist Ease= 2.5
• Hip Ease= 4

• Eliminated waist darts on front and back torso
• Cut off 1.25" from the front shoulder and added it to the back.
• Cut off a yoke 4.5" from neckline at CB
• Rotated back shoulder dart to seamline
• Rotated front bust dart to two shoulder pleats
• Mirrored the collar and stand to create a "whole"
• Created the Express Collar from the regular collar pattern
• Smoothed the arc of the yoke piece
• Drafted a missing cuff (?!?)

This is the first woven top that I've made with my new WiderBack chart. I think it may have solved my problems with back tightness, although I really need to try it out on a more fitted garment. Perhaps I can even deflate the bicep measurement to more closely reflect my actual bicep measurement.

This shirt is a keeper--I think I'll retain this paper pattern to make again.

Shirt muslin

Tuesday, September 27, 2005

On the sewing front, I'm working to create a loose-fitting shirt to wear with my J@va Vest. Before I make the actual shirt, of course, I will make a muslin so that I can tweak things like length, collar style, and amount of ease.

The muslin will actually be made of a nicer fabric than the "real" shirt. It's some very fine cotton that I bought from Ressy--a beautiful french vanilla color and so-o-o soft. Unfortunately the color is flattering to neither the DH nor myself. He, in fact, turned up his nose at it right away--doesn't like the vanilla.

He's a chocolate man.

So, while I want to use the fabric--want to *wear* the fabric--I need to spiff it up somehow. I first tried Purrfection Artistic Wearable's split fabric technique, thinking that would be a fun way to introduce some color and try something new. No. It's too hard to get the ends of the shapes to be neat. The fabric underneath has to be finished somehow, too, and anything bright shows through the cotton. All-in all, too much time to invest in a muslin.

Now I'm considering some embroidery. I'm playing with some of Damast Embroidery's freebies now.

I like the old-fashioned look of this, but I'm not sure that I want to wear it. If this doesn't work out, I may next test some stamping--something I've been wanting to try for quite some time now.

Knit dresses, revisited

Tuesday, September 20, 2005

Whipped up a 2-piece knit dress over the weekend. I made it from some more of the crepe knit that I got from Denver Fabrics last spring. I bought 4 lengths of the stuff to make twinsets, but haven't managed to work up any enthusiasm for the task.

The other two are pink and cranberry. They may become twinsets, since I can't envision myself walking around in a dress made from either of them. Not only that, but squeezing a dress out of these 45-inch wide fabrics has been nerve-racking. The periwinkle dress has a seam up the back, as does this latest model.

The skirt was drafted as a flared gore skirt. I *thought* I could lay out 4 narrow pieces easier than 2 wide ones, but that turned out not to be the case at all. I finally placed the two front pattern pieces along the fold with their seam allowances overlapping. The overlapped back pieces received a center back seam.

It turns out to be fun to wear, with a nice swingy movement that makes me want to twirl around. (All girls are princesses...or ballet dancers...or...)

The top also got a cb seam and the sleeves were cut off short due to lack of fabric. I had initially drafted the sleeves to the same 16-inches as the periwinkle dress that I made last week.

This is the second time I've used the scooped neckline. It is almost perfect for a short necklace. Next time I'll make it 1/4- to 1/2-inch lower, though, just to give the necklace a bit more margin around it.

This is not the same draft as the holy grail tee. This one is from my new "Widerback" chart. I like it. It could be scaled to about 95% width-wise, but it's fine as-is. The wider back is, of course, not needed for a knit, but I *really* like to use the same chart for everything if at all possible. That keeps me from having to set defaults in multiple charts, and keep up with any measurement tweaks in more than one chart.

I don't think I ever showed you the finished periwinkle dress, but I finally hemmed it with a twin needle. Then hems in both the sleeves and skirt are 1 inch, just turned and hemmed, no overcasting. This dress received the same treatment.

The necklines on both are done with narrow self-fabric bindings.

The shiny underside of the fabric would have been pretty for binding, but it picks so easily. I was afraid I would ruin the whole thing by snagging the neck binidng before I even had a chance to wear it. I managed not to pick this turquoise one (yet), but it's sure to get it as soon as I sit down on a bench at work.

The periwinkle has a large pick on the inside of the bodice already. Fortunately you can't really notice the picks on the crepe side.

Peri Knit Dress

Tuesday, September 13, 2005

This is the dress with the bust dart rotated to the neckline and gathered. The crepe doesn't show up the gathers very much. I'm calling it a muslin. It will be wearable once hemmed, but not without two things: a body shaper and some striking accessory to draw the attention upward.

The knit--ahem--clings.

Find a bulge on my body, and the crepe knit flashes a neon sign in that direction. (I know you can't see it in these pictures--do you think I'd put a picture of that on display to the world???) In any case, it'll be a decent dress for church, and possibly work.

Well, church. I don't think I can tolerate a body shaper for an entire day!

The striking accessory is already in progress. It's a zigzag scarf from the multidirectional Yahoo! group. I got by the LYS late yesterday for some of Art Yarn's Super Merino. I'm not sure which colorway it is, but it matches the dress--red, purple--and is gorgeous, not to mention a real pleasure to work with.

"Elegance" skirt all done

Friday, September 02, 2005

There are definite differences between this linen skirt and the knit dress. When I walk the knit has nice "swoopy" motion. The linen tends to have a life of its own and stands away from the body a bit. I expect it will soften up over time, but right now, it has a more A-line appearance than the knit version.

When I cut the linen, I placed the center front fold line about 5/8" away from the fold to give me a bit more ease in front. It's perfect, and the linen will only get better with age.

I would like a few transitional knit dresses. They'll have to have elastic in the waist, I think, to support the weight of the skirt. I've drafted a new style knit top with the bust dart rotated to the neck for gathers, and 16 in sleeves. Perhaps I can morph that into a dress for some of those other knits I bought last spring.

With the long weekend upon us, I'm hoping to get some projects finished. Maria is still waiting for her chemise and a dress. The doll round robin ends next weekend, so I've got to accessorize the little urchin who is waiting patiently for my attention on that project. Then, there's my taupe shawl almost completed.

Fun!

Pink "Buttermilk" knit

Monday, August 29, 2005

The plan came together! You've gotta be happy when that happens. Because I was a bit under the weather with a summer cold or something, I didn't leave the house on Saturday. It was prime time for working on the buttermilk knit.

Although the color does little for me, I got a lot of compliments on the finished dress when I wore it on Sunday. The fabric has too little contrast and reads "Thousand Island Dressing" from a few yards away--as does my skin. I think what people liked was the flowing nature of the dress, rather than how flattering it was to my coloring.

Despite that, I *am* pleased with the way the dress turned out.

The weight of the knit, though slight, caused the waistline to pull downward, so I employed the elastic trick from my copycat tops to support the skirt. I cut a length of elastic to fit my waistline loosely, and sewed the ends to make a circle. Then I attached the back half to the waist seam of the dress and left the front half free. This pulls in the back and allows the front of the dress to hang smoothly.

To introduce some contrast around the neck, I used some darker threads in the serger and edged the neck binding before I applied it to the garment. After I attached it to the inside of the garment, I folded the finished edge over to the right side and topstitched it down.

From the scraps of this fabric, I've already made two pairs of Jalie panties, the bikini version. I've got enough left to make two pairs of the boycut. This stuff makes *nice* panties.

Poncho Pizzazz

Wednesday, August 24, 2005

I don't think I've mentioned the poncho that we started week before last at ASG neighborhood group. It's almost done, but as I have nothing to wear underneath it, and no prospects, I haven't finished it yet.

We used Sandra Betzina's Poncho Pizazz handout, but this is dead easy. You fold your fabric into a square and seam one side. After that, all you have to do is cut a neck opening and hem it. I plan to couch some eyelash yarn along the edge of this to finish the hem. I actually mitered one of the corners, but I'll undo that.

Underneath, it needs a sheath in one of the blues.

Tips for Better Pockets

Monday, August 08, 2005

I've always enjoyed pockets on my clothing. When I was making my Princess Pants, I decided after fitting that I would put some slanted trouser-style pockets on the front of them. Since these were an after-thought, they are an example of how *not* to do pockets. To make better pockets, try these tips:

• Stabilizer makes for nicer pockets. These pockets openings gape. At minimum, interface the openings before sewing the pocket facing to the front of the pants
• Better still, applique a bit of fashion fabric onto a very stable pocketing and used that instead of the fashion fabric. Men's pants pockets are made this way and stand up to a lot of use without gaping at all.
• Minimize show-through by making the pocket bags from a flesh-toned pocketing.

Princess for a day

Friday, August 05, 2005

They aren't done yet, but I'm so happy with them I just had to show you now!

What's so great about 'em? Well, I've never worn capris because of my scrawny ankles and the fact that I can never find cute affordable summer shoes to fit my narrow feet. I've always loved culottes and gauchos, though, despite the shoe problem. These are sort of a cross between the two. They are close to being capris, but the legs are based on the "straight leg" pmb draft, so they are nice and roomy--over 23 inches at the hem.

I love the little slit on the front of the leg. (I was copying Neue Mode 22836.)

One problem turned to advantage: with the new update to PMB, the waist on these things was over 3 inches too big. I decided to fix it by employing Rowena's magic elastic waistband technique, and I love it!

For best effect, the pant's waist should be 2 inches larger than necessary. You install the waistband to fit the top of the pants leaving both ends unfinished, and the overlap end twice as long as needed. Next, thread the elastic through the waistband and anchor it to the overlap end. Pull the underlap end of the elastic so that the overlap end pulls inside itself. Pull far enough that the overlap has no elastic inside to hamper buttonhole making. Topstitch across the end of the overlap so that further pulling will not affect this end.

Continue pulling on the underlap end of the elastic until you get it a good length. The designer of this method suggests wearing the garment with the elastic pinned in place for 20 minutes to be sure it's right. (That's what I was doing in the photos.) Once you are satisfied with the length, stitch it securely to the underlap side.

You can finish the end as desired. It's the underlap side, so it doesn't have too be perfectly neat.

There are a few other things that I want to write about these, but it'll have to wait.

Summertime Shirt

Wednesday, August 03, 2005

A couple of years ago I bought this bright purse print to make the Sprout a sheath. I thought it was great and that she should really go for it.

"Uh, no." (That translates to "Are you crazy, that's hideous!" for those of you who don't have teenage daughters.)

So it has languished in-stash until last week when I decided to use it for a measurement muslin. On the new PMB forum, Trish posted some driving-ease suggestions that I wanted to try. They involved some widening and lengthening of various measurements, which I had not tried before. In the end I decided not to use those measurements again, but I did get a summer-y camp shirt out of my efforts.

It needs a pair of white linen cropped pants to go with it for summer's last gasp. The Sprout helped me decide on a good length, and I've drafted some princess pants, similar to Neue Mode 22836.

I'll have her liking this fabric yet!

Plethora of knits

Thursday, July 21, 2005

In keeping with my desire to avoid purchasing fabric, I've decided to follow up on yesterday's inclination. I'll design garments to suit the stash, as opposed to mining the stash to suit the garment.

Start with the fabric.

My stash has an (over)abundance of knit fabrics at present. Everything from underwear knits to slinky to sweater knits. We won't discuss how this happened, it just did. Neither will we dwell on my desire to sew wovens. That will simply have to be supressed until such time as the stash no longer overflows 5 large plastic bins.

So. What do I need? Dresses. I've been wanting new dresses for quite a while. There's nothing so easy to wear as a dress. You don't have to find anything to match it. You only have to make one garment to have an outfit. If it needs ironing, there's only one piece!

And dresses use a lot of fabric...

Given the way that I always have to make 3 or 4 of every pattern that I draft, I should be through those bins in no time!

The New Pink

Monday, July 18, 2005

I don't know what I'll call my next "Pink" top. It's drafted and the pattern is glued. Fortunately I drafted it before applying the July 15th update to PatternMaster, so I don't have to be too worried about the update changing things.

The "skirt" part will be cut on the straight grain this time. Perhaps you noticed the odd way that the dots lined up on The Pink's lower front? It looks as if I wasn't very careful laying it out--but I was, just didn't realize what bias would do to those dots.

There's no appropriate, light-colored fabric in the stash, so I may have to buy some. Every cotton I have is too busy for this style. I stumbled upon the pink dot when I was looking for something else. I got it when the Sprout was 2-and-a-half for a smocked dress outgrown before I had time to make it. (Don't worry--I made her plenty of other stuff!)

Hobby Lobby has a pretty pale yellow cotton with blue flowers that would make a nice "Pink" top.

"In the Pink" part 2

Tuesday, July 12, 2005

I always have to make a garment about three times before I eradicate all or at least most of the problems. Of course, then I don't want to make any more of them. One can only hope that some of the knowledge gleaned from that exercise will carry over to the next garment.

After working through the New Look 6407 KOs, I decided that my CF measurement could be a tiny bit longer. Then I realized that the length needed to be above the bust, so I added to the bust point measurement the same amount that I added to the CF.

Thus this pink top started out a step ahead. Even so, it has a number of *issues* to correct for the next version. I made some serious design mistakes--correctable, with any luck at all.

First, my neckline didn't open far enough and I could barely get it over my head. I opened up the facing and fixed that last night. A neck depth of 4.5 inches is plenty for a button-front top, but not for a pullover--at least not for my generously-proportioned noggin. The next one will be drafted to 5.25 deep.

Second, I forgot to leave extra seam allowance for the side zipper. My 3/8ths in allowance is not enough to insert *any* sort of zipper, and I cannot wear this top without one. I'm hoping to engineer some sort of fix involving bias tape.

Finally, the thing is too short. Without a hem, it's nearly perfect. With a hem turned up, it looks ridiculous. Bias tape may face this hem, or I may be able to bias bind it somehow.

Besides all that, there's a fit problem. You know that I've always complained about my PMB sleeves in wovens. I've tried all sorts of things to fix them. At long last, the sleeve caps are now tall enough and wide enough (and hard to ease in). I still need reaching room, though.

After I put the sleeves in "The Pink" and tried the top on, I could barely raise my arms to driving position. It pulled horribly across the sleeve and around to the back.

That's when I realized that the problem was not in the back. Pinning out some on each side of the front between bust point and shoulder improved my mobility considerably. The measuring tape revealed that while the top was over 14 inches across at the armpit, I am only about 12.25 inches across at that point.

I feel as if I'm on the verge of a fitting breakthrough.

"In the Pink" Top

Monday, July 11, 2005

My man-pants reward sewing was supposed to be a shirtwaist dress, but it magically morphed into a knock-off of Butterick 4549.

This top has elements of several tops that I've already made. It will have a side zip like the Blue Satin top of last winter, empire waist and shirring from last year's shawl collared LuLu, and the neckline and collar from this year's collared Vees.

Black Lace Camisole--saved!

Friday, June 17, 2005

A bit of scissorwork saves the day!

Since there was no ripping off the scrunchy bindings, I cut them off with my trusty Ginghers. Actually the camisole is better for the larger openings. I think I'll go back and take 3/8 in more off the draft at the neckline and armholes.

I recut the bindings using the lycra specs from yesterday's chart, and it worked beautifully.

You can't tell from this awful photograph, but the front neckline is about 2.5 inches lower than the back neckline. Also, you can't see the triangular applique at the center front neckline where I *creatively* covered a hole cut when trimming the binding.

8{

Thank goodness lace is so forgiving. I made the patch--er, applique in the shape of a triangle and zig-zagged it on. I was hoping that a triangle would make it appear that I intended for it to be there, but you don't even see it.

Now if I can just find my perfected Jalie panties pattern.

A wadder--NOT!

Thursday, June 16, 2005

After work yesterday I needed a little "Sewing Room Therapy" so I quickly cut a stretch lace camisole. This was not the same as the black interlock one I made last week, but more like a tank top with a lot more negative ease. (much less ease?)

The hem was cut along the scalloped selvage, so it was about a 30 minute project, or should have been.

I decided on binding the neck and armholes with self fabric and used my standard formulas for that (thanks to Stretch & Sew and Emma Seabrooke):

The way you use this formula is to take the measurement of your neckline, subtract the appropriate percentage, and add 1 inch for seam allowance. Then you cut your binding strips that length and seam the ends. Finally, apply them to the garment at the quarter marks.

Well, mine didn't work out. I applied the bindings to the neck and armholes, but it scrunched them up. I thought it would stretch back out when I put it on, but no. Still scrunchy.

I did not realize until I typed the chart above, that I used the wrong fabric type! I used the formula for "knit" when I should have used "lycra". I'll go back and try again tonight. This will have matching panties, so I want to get it right!

Another (better) Tee

Monday, June 13, 2005

By George, I think I've got it!

This one is the best yet. It is interlock, which is less stretchy than the red tee. It fits closely, but not too close. I took the red tee draft, which had been scaled horizontally to 95% already, and

1. removed an additional .5" removed from sideseam at back waist
2. removed an additional .25" removed from sideseam at front waist
3. removed .25" of the side bust dart at the shoulder
4. shortened to approximately 19" and straightened the hemline
5. angled sleeve seam inward slightly at hem

For the binding, I used my standard 1.75" strip of cross-grain knit quartered and sewn rst (right sides together). Then I flipped to to the ws (wrong side) and used a twin needle finish. Stitching from the front, I let the right needle pierce the edge of the binding and the left needle stitch in the ditch. On the inside, I simply trimmed the raw edge near the stitching.

I think using the twin needle will make this more secure than a single line of straight stitching--not to mention more stretchy. Too, I've had the heartbreaking experience of watching this sort of unfinished binding "let go" after trimming too close to the stitching. That shouldn't happen with this method.

I think this is the holy grail dartless T-shirt. You'll be seeing this again. Look for it!

Sewing dizzily

Friday, June 10, 2005

I'm on my third day of vertigo aka Vestibular Neuronitis. The doc said it was most likely a postlude of the sore throat I had last week.

Well, thanks.

As long as I stay upright and look straight ahead, I'm good. So I can sew, and type on the 'puter, as long as I stay still and move carefully. I almost pitched myself onto the floor pouring coffee this morning. Whoa!

Yesterday I drafted a camisole from my red tee and worked on the doll face for the round robbin. Surprisingly they both turned out pretty well despite my swaying when I reach for anything! I can't show you the doll face, but here's the cami.

This I got from DC's review at PR. I didn't know I wanted one, but after reading her review, I tried some on at Target. They were too long and their fabric was too flimsy. Debbie made it sound easy, so I drafted this one based on my red Tee (knit top <gg> ). It's a tiny bit loose yet, but I'll correct that next time.

Perhaps I'll get a page up later on today showing how I did it. I already paid my bills, and I can't do much else, after all.

I did get a page up. Check this out: http://www.rustybobbin.com/gallery/2005/TOP-camisole.html

Dartless Tee

Tuesday, June 07, 2005

Everybody needs a few tee shirts to expand their wardrobe. The Patternmaster tees have served me well, but sometimes the reviews of commercial patterns at PatternReview are very enticing.

After the 2005 SWAP, Julie at Timmel Fabrics gave each entrant a pattern of their choice as a perk for entering the contest. I chose Jalie 2005, Choice of T-shirts based on the many glowing reviews at Pattern Review. I've had it for a week or three, and decided to get it out and compare it to my last known good PMB draft. I'd like to have a bit more shape to my tees, and a comparison might help.

The differences were interesting, and not as radical as I was expecting. The Jalie in my size was circumferentially smaller than my PMB tee. My PMB tee has more waistline definition but with 7+inches of ease there, definition hardly matters.

I need negative ease over all to approximate (but not reproduce) the Jalie. I do want my next tee to be a bit more body skimming--but fit smoothly (unlike the ones I tried on at Target last week!)

The Jalie hip had much less ease that than its bust (armpit)--I'm sure this excess is used in an attempt to fit many different ladies. My tee didn't have this excess width--and I don't need it.

My sleeves were very similar in both width and length. A surprising difference was the shape of the Jalie sleeve cap, though. It has a very "poofy" shape--almost as if it should be gathered.

Based on this comparison, I've scaled my PMB tee down and cut in the waist a little more. Once I've made that, I may experiment with the sleeve cap some. Given my troubles with PMB sleeves, I'm a little afraid to make big changes.

Good weekend's sewing

Tuesday, May 31, 2005

It seems like I sewed a lot over the weekend, but that's an illusion caused by my having sewn all day yesterday while listening to Poor Butterfly, a Toby Peters mystery.

Saturday we had a banner workshop at the church. We are finishing an Advent banner, which we realized could double as an Easter banner, if we put the text on separating side panels. Then, we started a small UMW banner to be done in time for a January event--that one will be mounted on a hula hoop.

We had fun trying out the hula hoop to be sure we could still do it!

Between regular weekend events and Memorial day cookouts, I worked on another pair of stretch cotton slim slacks and my next KOKO. I'm wearing both of these today, so I feel good about my weekend's accomplishments.

I wanted to try the Italian collar in place of the collar and stand that I had used on the original KOKO. I don't like it as much. The stand makes the collar hug my neck nicely. The Italian collar, while nice, is just not the same. It would probably work well for someone whose neck is not as long as mine.

Another new feature on this garment is the armscye dart. You can't see it very well in this image. The angle of it makes any excess in that area stand out, and I won't be using it again. When you stand perfectly staight with an erect posture, it looks nice, otherwise it's yucky.

I wanted to dress up the plain top with a little embroidery-- I forgot about the collar, and the embroidery is mostly covered.

:-|

Fly Zipper--A Real Fly Zipper

Thursday, May 26, 2005

On DH's Kwik Sew Pants, the pattern employs a mock fly zipper--just like most women's pants. I've been sewing this kind of zip forever, so the ones I make look pretty good. DH hasn't complained, or even noticed that the zips on his home sewn pants are any different than the ones on his RTW.

The only person who notices is me, and honestly, the only reason that I care is because of my topstitching. With the fly shield I use in place, you can't topstitch the "hook" portion without breaking your stitching. Or, I can't.

RTW top stitching exhibits no such break.

I've been looking at RTW pants trying to figure out how they do fly zips for quite some time, but never going so far as to rip a pair apart. I could tell that the fly shield and the zip were sewn together to the center front seam, allowing the fly shield to fold back from the top stitching completely. The shield is bar-tacked into place later.

Somehow I couldn't quite work it out, and nothing I have at home goes through the process in a way that makes any sense. If it mentions a real fly at all, it goes through such gyrations with flipping and folding that I'm completely cross-eyed before I get to the end of it.

I decided to do an all out search of the 'net to find some instructions I could understand. I followed every link--most were to the mock fly style that I can do with my eyes closed--until I found this one:

http://www.geocities.com/FashionAvenue/Catwalk/4867/sewtip1.html (scroll down about half way)

I printed it out and read through it a couple of times and Eureka!!! I've got it. Last night I successfully employed this method on my in-progress slim slacks. Now that I understand the concept, I've thought of a few improvements.

Someone said that Peggy Sagers has a fly method on her pants patterns that might be like this. I don't own any of her patterns, but when I've seen her on Sew Much More, she seems to know her stuff. It might be worth buying a pattern just to check out the fly.

Palms and Glitter

Wednesday, May 25, 2005

I finished my Glittery Aqua palms outfit late on Monday.

The photo is horrid--all green and glassy eyed. I *was* recovering from my second migraine in 5 days. I don't know what that was about. I've sworn off aspartame for a while. There was a lot of unusual food and stress in my life last week, what with the Sprout graduating and Sandra B coming to town. I hope it was a fluke. Surely it was.

I'll wear the outfit to our family Memorial day celebration on Saturday. It should be perfect. The hat shades just enough of my face, and is lightweight--not to mention super simple to make.

If you wear hats, try making one like this. There are a ton of these simple patterns in the books right now. I own 4 or 5 of them! This particular one is Butterick 4366. I traced the narrow brim version and added about 5/8" to the outer edge when I cut the thing out. It's probably about like view D.

This hat is one of those projects that is easy to envision making a new one from every scrap. Sort of like all those purse accessories that I keep mentally constructing. Funny thing, though, they never magically appear in my purse!

While strolling through the stash one day...

Thursday, May 19, 2005

As I was putting the yucky black fabric back into it's plastic bin, I stumbled over this glittery palm tree fabric in the box marked "Blue". You can't tell from this photo, but the upside down tree has a bit of silver glitter along the branches. (I got it last year from Sarah's coop, and I love it!)

It loudly announced that it wanted to be a pair of slim slacks ASAP!

OK.

Nothing like fabric that tells you what it wants to be. (Takes a lot of the guesswork away, right?)

I took it downstairs and placed it on the cutting table ahead of the tan stretch cotton that *was* destined for the next pair. After cutting the palm pants, I had about 1/2 yard left. None of it could be wasted. What to do? Dental kit bag? Telephone cozy? How's about a little anti-sun hat???

Hat + pants + white tee = outfit

Since I had traced Butterick 4366 last winter, I decided to use that one. View D.

Past Dressing

Tuesday, May 17, 2005

In the Vintage Sewing topic on the PatternReview message boards, I read about the Decades of Style pattern company where you can get old patterns, reproduced and modernized.

I've always loved vintage styles, and one of my favorite things to do is look through the vintage clothing book that DH gave me for my birthday. Ebay has yielded a number of vintage patterns which I enjoy looking at, too. I've even gone so far as to trace a few of them, but I've never tried to sew them. Usually I find some detail that I transfer to a modern garment with PatternMaster.

When I found the Decades of Style (NAYY) web site, I was tickled pink. I immediately ordered the Kitchenette Pajamas pattern because I thought it was so cute. The pattern arrived, and I was impressed with the quality of the reproduction and the speedy service. I put it away for "later" and promptly forgot I ordered it.

I was reminded of the company when I changed my 'puter's screensaver from my son's wedding photos to my vintage pattern photos. Well now they have even *more* patterns than when I ordered the Kitchenette pajamas. The 1919 skirt and the 1928 Flapper apron will be mine!

Magic waistlines

Monday, May 16, 2005

Over the two years or so that I've had PatternMaster Boutique, I've tried many of the pants style variations. When drafting, I tend to choose the slacks draft with slim cut legs. When I go into my closet, however, the pants I reach for most often have tapered legs.

With tapered, everything hangs from the fullest part, just like I was taught pants are supposed to hang. If you have your hip and crotch depth in the right place, all is well. They are well suited for the workplace--no cupping under or derriere accentuation to worry about!

This latest pair has nice tapered legs, front pockets, fly zip and a 1/2" waistband.

Generally I cut my waistbands when I'm ready to sew them on. I use my ruler to measure a long strip of the appropriate width, rather than printing a pattern piece. This way I don't have to decide up front what sort of waistband I want. After I cut, I mark the length with chalk and fold it in half to mark the center back.

Friday night, my usual length seemed short. I marked it and pinned it around me and thought "Hmmm.... let's make this a half inch longer." The next morning I sewed the waistband on without thinking more about it.

When I tried the pants on, I discovered that my magic waistline had shrunk back to it's usual size or a tiny bit smaller.

:-|

Scribbled

Friday, May 06, 2005

My kids used to call any thing that was messy or scrambled "Scribble-scrabble". As in "It's all scribble-scrabble!!!" (Fix it, Mom!)

I'm calling my new top "Scribbles" and it recalls fond memories of two little children, but it's definitely not scribble-scrabble!

The sleeves turned out great. I'll try these same setting on some other styles--not knits, of course. (More on this another day. I have two dolls to put hair on before I can move on to more tops.)

For the first time I attempted to set one sleeve using PMB's front and back matching notches and did not enjoy the experience one bit. I ran an ease line and arranged the ease so the marks on the sleeve cap matched the ones on the armscye. When I sewed it in, I had two or three little tucks to fix. Grrrr.

For the second sleeve I went back to my usual method. I match underarm seam and the lower section of the sleeve, then put the shoulder point in approximately the right place. For the actual sewing, I place the sleeve on bottom so that the feed dogs handle the easing. That works like a charm and I rarely (never?) have those nasty little tucks to fix.

Also, I normally use the collar/stand method described in DPC's Shirtmaking book or the Singer Sewing Series (can't remember which one right now). That doesn't work very well on this collar and stand because the stand doesn't extend past the edge of the collar. Instead, I used another popular method that is described in Sandra Betzina's Power Sewing Step by Step where you attach one side of the collar stand to the completed collar, sew that unit on, then sew the other side of the stand in place. This is a great method for this style shirt. I'm glad I decided to try it.

Enough discussion already! Here, at last, is a photo of this first in a series of garments sewn with black thread.

Perhaps I'll wear it on Mother's Day!

Scribbles

Thursday, May 05, 2005

Scribbles, my next New Look 6407 KO is done all but the sleeves. Brunhilde is wearing it until I can get back to it. (She'd best not get too attached!)

The draft tweaks I made appear to be paying off.

When I was developing my dartless tee draft, I had increased my underbust (UB) measurement to get a slightly smaller dart and forgot to revert to the original number. The striped top told me that the UB msrmnt needed to be changed back.

The other tweak was designed to get a tall-enough, wide-enough sleeve cap. I believe I mentioned that my sleeve caps were not as tall as I would like--when my arms hang straight down, they wrinkle. Since I spend most of my time seated with my arms hanging straight down to a computer keyboard, I want my sleeves to look good in that position.

Mobilty schmobility.

The trouble is that when you raise the sleeve cap, it narrows significantly. Even if you increase the ease to the point of *way too much*, the cap is too narrow. So, for this latest top, I increased my bicep measurement by another 1/2" and raised the sleeve cap 1/4" above the "0" level.

These changes gave me a cap that is higher (taller?) and wide enough that it might work. I'll know as soon as I insert the sleeves.

Scribbles may look great sleeveless. ;)

The Next One

Tuesday, May 03, 2005

There's black thread on the serger now. Why is it that a 5 minute job of rethreading the serger puts me off???

Whatever color thread is on the serger is the color of garment that I have to sew. The color of thread on my serger accounts for most of the clothes in my closet. There's no plan. I just don't want to change the serger thread!!!

I could buck the tendency and put the white back on. That would allow me to proceed to the green striped shirting for my next collared (collard!) vee top. I want bias stripes on it.

But no. On top of the stack of newly acquired fabric is this one that wants to be a shirt and can be sewn with black thread.

After it is done, I'll get out the stashed black linen for a pair of slacks. Who can say where this black phase will go!

Aqua Twin Set finished

Saturday, April 16, 2005

The test twin set is done. I love it! The ribbon that I finally found was too intense a blue to work on the front, so it will remain plain. I stayed up until 12:30 last night working on it and my RR doll. I'm so tired today that I can hardly hold my eyes open. (Naturally I woke up at 6:00 this morning.)

The RR doll had to be done for a 2:00 meeting. I finished that at 1:01pm today. I've got some cute pictures of it, but unfortunately I can't show them yet. Later.

Spring Twin Set for 05

Friday, April 15, 2005

A week or so ago, I ordered 4 different colours (I'm feeling Canadian today) of this polyester boucle from Denver Fabrics. They have arrived, and I like them a lot. I'm afraid they will have a tendency to pick, but at that price, I'll wear them while they last.

I really enjoy wearing twin sets because of the faulty thermostat (me and my office). When I get hot, I can just strip off the outer layer and turn on the fan (FAST!!!). Not only are they nice for layering and comfort, but a top layer (vest, jacket, or sweater) adds some professionalism to your outfit, I think.

Before these new fabrics came, I wanted to get a Twin Set Pattern drafted and tested so that I could just knock out all 4 of them right quick. I employed my dartless method that I came up with for the SWAP and chose a stashed sweater knit from Emma One Sock to test it.

This was all working fine until I realized that there wasn't enough fabric to cut the cardigan. I went back to the Editor and made a second front, cutting the front with an empire waist and rotating the bust dart to give me a bit of shirring on the upper front. It looks great--so current. I'm headed to Hancock's later on to see if I can find some ribbon to make a little underbust tie for the front of the cardigan.

Hmmm... Haven't we seen this look before? Like in the 60s???

Well, now that I've got this thing all worked out and am happy with it, Debbie has to go and make this new style of twin set and, of course, now I want that one!!!

Mandarin Princess #3 Finally

Thursday, February 10, 2005

The skirt I had envisioned to go with this top is a long A-line in a loden green. The skirt is half done, and I can already tell that it won't work. The top looks much better with a black skirt or pants--fortunately I have plenty of those already. The loden skirt is bound to match something I have in my closet--or maybe I can fit it into my SWAP somehow.

Hmmm....

Chenille Scarf

Monday, February 07, 2005

Saturday is the Claire Shaeffer program!!! Yay! What a wonderful thing to look forward to all week.

Last Saturday wasn't too shabby, either. We had our local neighborhood ASG group meeting and enjoyed a program on making a chenille scarf. It seems simple, but time-consuming. I found these on the web. Our program was on making a scarf like the last link:

• Ben Franklin's fleece chenille
• Quilt Quest's flannel chenille scarf
• HGTV's "different" chenille scarf
• A private album with some lovely examples

I don't have one on my radar yet, but it won't be long. Those scarves feel like a nice soft kitty.

Plaid Poncho

Wednesday, February 02, 2005

One of the "garments of black thread" that I've been working on this week is a poncho from Butterick 6220 (oop, apparently). Now this is not your modern poncho with fringe around it to be worn when you're stylin'. This is more like a hooded rain poncho.

My version is more like an overcoat.

I had been wanting to make this for quite some time, but the sheer size of it put me off. It was only when I thought of how much stash space I could clear by making it that I went ahead with it.

The outer fabric is an Emma One Sock chenille from the days when she sold fabric on eBay. The lining is some fabric claiming to be MM Polartec 100, but whose actual origin is probably some dark alley. While it's okay as a lining for a poncho, it's not nearly as nice as some other Polartec 100 I've used.

The pattern did not call for a lining, but my chenille seemed a little "shifty" to be used alone. I simply eliminated the facing, interfaced the front edges, and lined it fully. Now that it's all sewn together, I really like it. I used vintage buttons and couched some chenille yarn around the edges.

It's not entirely done--I've yet to close the opening in the lining where I turned it, and I'd like to couch another row of yarn around, but I've (again) used up all the black thread.

This time I'll get 2 spools!

Ice-enforced sewing

Monday, January 31, 2005

You know how those detours just seem to take you further and further afield? You start out working on a warm weather SWAP and let one little thing, like a silk blouse, slip in there and the next thing you know, you've made three garments with black thread and are cutting a fourth.

The ice kept me indoors (and cold) all weekend, and as you might expect, I sewed a lot. In fact, I used up *all* of the black thread I had. Today I've got to get to Hancock's and get some more thread and some buttons to finish up my silk blouse.

The reverse sewing on the blouse to rotate the cap didn't help much. Fortunately I only unstitched one sleeve. There's been a lot of good advice this weekend about sleeves on the PMB list, so I plan to digest some of it for next time. The silk blouse is too delicate to wear very often anyway, so I'll leave it for church or some occasion when I want to be a bit more dressed up.

Silk blouse

Thursday, January 27, 2005

Even DH and the Sprout are impressed with my new top, and I can't say enough about how well it presses!

There are still issues with my sleeve caps, though. There's just not enough at my shoulder tip. (You know that place where your shoulder juts forward in front of your collar bone when you've spent 25 years in front of a computer?) I got up early this morning to work on it in Pattern Editor, and I have a draft to try in muslin.

For this top, I'm going to try shifting the ease forward by rotating the sleeve in the armscye a bit. It's certainly wearable as-is, and if I hold my arms out just right, a perfect fit!

---

Claire Shaeffer is coming to Atlanta on Feb 12 to do a program on "Chanel and the French Dressmaker Suit" and "Creating and Trimming an Original French Design". I can't wait! Check the Atlanta chapter's web site for more information:

http://www.asgatlanta.org/upcomingevents.html

Sweatshirt Jacket III

Thursday, January 13, 2005

Ok. So how long can I stretch this simple jacket project out...

One would think that I could have sewn on a couple of cuffs in an evenings' sewing. Nope. Not me.

I spent over an hour last night sewing vintage buttons onto the thing. It may be so heavy by the time I finish that I can't wear it! If that happens, I'll just bring Brunhilde to the meeting and let her model it!

<gg>

Sweatshirt Jacket II

Wednesday, January 12, 2005

S-L-O-W... Progress is being made, but not nearly as fast as I would like.

Last night I got the lower band in place. Once I decorate that a bit, I'll put some cuffs on the sleeves. Finally a closure. At this point I refuse to consider pockets. All I need is a finished jacket to take to the meeting next time. I don't need to get carried away with *extras*.

If you want to make a sweatshirt jacket of your own, there is a class online at Quiltsville.com. It's a fun thing if you're not chomping at the bit to do something else!

Sweatshirt Jacket

Tuesday, January 11, 2005

Rustybobn's sewing room is a UFO-free zone. No unfinished objects allowed!

When I'm done, wadders go into the trash, great clothes into the closet. Each piece must be disposed of before I can move on to the next. There are no "half-finisheds" hanging around to make me feel guilty!

It's a great policy, but sticking with it can be

paralyzing,

aggravating,

tiresome.

Last Saturday, at my ASG neighborhood group meeting, we started a sweatshirt jacket project. Now, I don't *need* a sweatshirt jacket, and it sure isn't on my SWAP chart, but it was fun to work on with the other ladies.

When the meeting was over, the jacket wasn't!

Because of my "No UFO" policy, I'm spending the golden hour each night working on a sweatshirt jacket--NOT what I had planned to do this week!

It's pretty, though, and stimulates my creative thought process in a different way. I've got the collar and front band done, along with a pleat in the back. All that's left to do is some cuffs, a closure, a bottom band, and perhaps some pockets.

Think I can get all that done tonight???

Embroidered Vest

Tuesday, January 04, 2005

Here's my last holiday project, all finished. I'm enjoying sewing in these front zipper closures so much. This makes four in the last week. If you've been afraid to really hack into a zipper, try it. It's quite empowering, not to mention stress relieving! This one is a big fat coil--not plastic teeth--so I didn't get to cut and tweeze, but it was still fun.

The embroidery is a freebie from the Tone on Tone Collection at Elsa's Designs, not coincidentally the same place my Christmas napkin design came from. I first put the rose on the front yoke, then decided I wanted something on the back. Unfortunately the design was too large for the back yoke, and I thought it would look silly below it. Embird to the rescue.

While I've had Embird for quite some time, I had only used it for converting designs to PES format. I knew it would do more, but I was afraid I would ruin the design and it would stitch out funny or something.

Well it did great! Once I got the design open, I was able to rotate it about 45 degrees and resize it with no trouble at all. As you can see, it stitched out just fine!

Snowman Hoodie

Thursday, December 30, 2004

I'll have to say, I'm being quite productive this week. Maybe I should take 2 weeks off to sew more often. Here's the Snowman hoodie that I just finished a bit ago:

This one is sew cute! I got the pocket lining at JoAnn's Christmas print clearance last week. It says "Let it Snow." The little snowmen came from Artistic Threadworks. My embroidery placement could be a bit better, but I'm learning stuff and this is not too bad. I see in the photo that the hem isn't quite level, but unlike embroidery-gone-wrong that is easily fixed.

Next time I plan a garment with embroidery, I think I'll note the placement in Pattern Editor before I print.

Good idea. Write that down.

The other thing that could be improved is the hood. It's beautiful and fits the neck of the garment perfectly, but it's not quite tall enough for my big head and long neck. That neck is why I made it to almost 5'4".

Red Fleece Vest

Wednesday, December 29, 2004

Just after I finished my early round of email yesterday, our Internet service went out. It did not come back until mid-morning today!

I hadn't realized just how much the Internet had replaced at my house--cook books, magazines, newspapers, television (at least for me) and is my most-enjoyed source of entertainment. I put my free time to good use, though, making this vest. (Details are linked from the gallery--scroll down to the end of December's projects.)

I really like it, although I haven't a thing to wear with it.

(I know, you really feel sorry for me...)

Whilst I was toiling away at the vest, I listened the first three casettes of The Truelove by Patrick O'Brian. Those audio books are the best!

Sprout's Hoodie

Tuesday, December 28, 2004

Yesterday I finished the new hoodie for the Sprout and gave it to her--only two days late. I enjoyed massacre-ing the zipper so much that I decided to make myself a red fleece vest before I change the serger thread from red to white for my white hoodie.

I've got a cute snowman print for the facing, and I'm thinking of lining the hood so it will show more. Stay tuned.

Bound buttonholes

Friday, September 17, 2004

Hurricane Ivan has moved on, leaving a lot of water, and a little bonus of a day off work! If I had the interfacing I need for my new jacket, I'd be jumping for joy.

Last night I was able to cut out the plaid shoulder princess jacket, and am ready to sew--except for the interfacing. I can probably find something that will do, if I go through my interfacing drawer carefully. There are at least two rivers between me and JoAnn's, so I have no plans to try to procure any today!

Since we learned to do welt pockets at our ASG meeting last Saturday, I want to put them on the new jacket, bound buttonholes, too! I've done welt pockets, but never bound buttonholes because I couldn't imagine what the back would look like. I'm still not sure exactly how I'll do mine, I'm leaning toward a method in Palmer-Pletch's book Easy, Easier, Easiest Tailoring, which I bought back when it cost 6.95. IMO, it's a good deal at $9.95.

Here are some places on the web to learn about bound buttonholes:

• Susan Khalje's take on it at DIY
• A blogger's tale of buttonholes (I feel empowered just reading this! Be sure to look at the finished garment.)
• Vintage Sewing's 1926 instructions (it hasn't changed much--scroll way down)
• Sew N Sew check out page 3 of this pdf for som clear instructions

Yoked Slim Slacks

Tuesday, September 07, 2004

Pants are done. I have no further excuse to stall on DH's new shirt. Put that white thread in the machine and proceed! Fortunately, I found a new sew-along at PatternReview that should help with motivation.

You can always count on PatternReview to help out when you need it!

Jacket Fabric photos

Friday, September 03, 2004

So here they are live (so to speak) and in color, my jacket fabrics (some of them, anyway):

I suppose the wool-silk plaid (top left) is more of a glen-plaid. The green, black, navy plaid is not that washed out in person, but I had to lighten the image a bit so that you could tell it was plaid.

Stack o' Jacket Fabrics

Thursday, September 02, 2004

The new jacket fabric joined the stack of jacket fabrics that are waiting for inspiration to strike. There's

• a wool-silk that I got at JoAnn's back when it used to be Cloth World and was a real fabric store. This fabric appeared to be blue-gray in the flourescent lights of the store, but reads olive at home.
• the pretty new piece from Fabric.com. This one is a poly-acrylic blend and should be washable. I'm hoping to attempt a delicate cycle wash any day now.
• an upholstery fabric that came from JoAnn's about a year ago. It's heavy with multi-colored horizontal stripes. I was thinking of something like Loes Hinse's Piazza Jacket when I bought it.
• a dark large plaid of black, green and navy. This one was a "buy the piece" fabric from Fabric Club. I think it's poly-rayon. There is actually a pattern printed for this one. It's a shoulder princess jacket with a v-neck. This one is waiting for space on the cutting table and for me to dig around in the attic box for some lining--plus enough presence-of-mind to match the plaids.

Jacket Fabric arrival

Wednesday, September 01, 2004

A package arrived via UPS yesterday labeled Fabric.com. I love it when that happens! Inside it was a fabric that I ordered on Saturday under the influence of the Chanel-style jacket thread at PatternReview. The fabric is one they call a sweater knit, but I'm almost positive it's woven.

Whatever it is, it's lovely, with a black background and a plaid design of a thick-thin multicolored thread--teal, cranberry, and some other colors--shot with a gold metalic thread. (I would link you to it, but this 'puter won't go there--my wallet is thankful. ) This will be perfect for a Chanel-style jacket, when I get around to it.

The sprout thought it was loud.

I guess I'll have to keep it for myself.

<snicker>

CopyCat Elastic

Tuesday, August 31, 2004

During lunch I snapped these pics of my magic elastic treatment on the back of my copyCat: You can't tell from the outside that the free-floating elastic is in the back of the top.

CopyCat Trick

Monday, August 30, 2004

This could be nursing access, for anyone who needed such a thing. Rustybobn, having no need for such accoutrements, is using it for modesty. What is it? Well, it's a dickey for my new bias copyCat, which is done and hanging in my closet awaiting its companion linen skirt.

Bias copyCat behaves completely differently from knit copyCat. The bias wants to slide

d

o

w

n

w

a

r

d

leaving heretofore covered portions of my chest exposed. Oops!

This top had to have structure. Yessirree!! structure was the word of the day yesterday when I decided that I could not risk going out in public in my beautiful new copyCat. Two important structural elements are now installed in the copyCat, making it a completely different-looking top from the other one.

First, the dickey. I drafted a top at the same ease level, but with a scoop neck and side darts. In PE, I cut this off at waist level and printed the front only. It has a bias neck binding and is sewn to the copyCat everywhere except the right sideseam. I basted it in place first, to be sure it would pull over my head.

Second, I discovered that a strip of elastic across the back at waist level kept everthing anchored. This is only secured at the side seams and keeps the weight of the top from pulling everything toward the front. I liked this so much that I went back and installed a similar strip in knit copyCat.